Essential Drone Parts: A Comprehensive Guide

Published by Amit Saxena on 29th Aug 2024

Updated: Sep 3, 2025

What changed: Shifted from an academic overview to a practical, focused guide with clear part picks, safety basics and quick checklists.

showcase of individual drone parts, including a propeller, motor, electronic speed controller (ESC), and flight controller

After helping over 1,000 customers select their first drone components at Evelta, we've noticed something interesting: the questions everyone asks aren't about complex aerodynamics or programming - they're refreshingly practical. "Will this motor work with that ESC?" "Why are some frames ₹2,000 and others ₹20,000?" "What's the difference between F4 and F7 flight controllers, really?"

This guide tries to answer those exact questions. We'll walk through each essential drone component not from a textbook perspective, but from the viewpoint of someone standing in front of a parts catalog for the first time. By the end, you'll understand not just what each part does, but why it matters for your specific build; and which specifications you can safely ignore. We’ll use a 5 inch FPV quad as the default example, though the same principles apply to other sizes and styles.

Frame: The Skeleton of Your Drone
Batteries & Power 101
Motors: Powering Your Drone's Flight
Propellers: Generating Lift and Thrust
Flight Controller: The Brain of Your Drone
Electronic Speed Controllers (ESCs)
Cameras and Gimbals: Your Drone's Eyes
Communication Systems: Transmitters and Receivers
Additional Accessories
Adapting This Guide to Other Builds
Conclusion
Frequently Asked Questions

Frame: The Skeleton of Your Drone

The 30-Second Version
For a first 5 inch quad, choose a durable carbon fiber frame with replaceable 5 mm arms, a top-mount battery, and room for a standard stack. Look for wheelbase ~220 to 250 mm, 30.5 x 30.5 mm stack holes for FC and ESC, plus 20 x 20 mm holes in the rear for VTX if possible. Pick micro camera size (19 mm) side plates and 16 x 16 mm M3 motor mounts on the arms. That combo is beginner friendly and tough enough to survive your "learning opportunities" (aka crashes).

What a Frame Does

The frame is literally what holds your expensive electronics together while you throw them at the sky repeatedly. It determines your drone's size, weight distribution, durability, and how much cursing you'll do during assembly. Think of it as your drone's skeleton - it defines the shape, provides mounting points for everything else, and takes the beating when you "land".

Beyond just being a carbon fiber pancake with arms, the frame affects flight characteristics. Arm length determines prop size, weight distribution affects how it feels in the air, and geometry influences whether it feels locked-in or floaty. A good frame survives your learning curve. A bad one teaches you how to repair carbon fiber at 11 PM the night before a flying session.

Size, Materials, and Weight

Material: Carbon fiber is the default for 5 inch. It is stiff, durable, and easy to repair.
Wheelbase: Most 5 inch frames sit between 220 and 250 mm. Anywhere in that band is fine for learning.
Weight targets:
- Freestyle beginner frames: 110 to 140 g (sturdier, easier to live with).
- Racing style frames: 65 to 100 g (lighter, but less forgiving in crashes).
Arms: Go 5 mm thick for durability while you are learning. Replaceable arms save money and time.

Geometry: How It Flies and What You See (Spoiler: Mostly Sky and Ground)

True X or Squished X: Balanced feel and predictable handling. Great for learning.
Deadcat: Front arms spread wider so props stay out of HD camera view. Slightly different feel but very popular for freestyle and filming.
Top-mount vs bottom-mount battery:
- Top-mount balances well and keeps the battery safer in grass and dirt.
- Bottom-mount can feel a bit more locked-in for racing, but it is easier to scuff packs.
For a first build, top-mount is the simple choice.

Mounting Patterns and Compatibility

Electronics stack:
- 30.5 x 30.5 mm, M3 for standard 5 inch stacks.
- 20 x 20 mm, M2 often used for VTX or lighter stacks.
- Some modern frames also support 25.5 x 25.5 mm, M2 AIO boards.
Camera:
- Micro 19 mm side plates fit most FPV cams.
- Nano 14 mm is common on very light builds; use adapters if needed.
Motors:
- Arms should have 16 x 16 mm, M3 holes for 22xx and 23xx motors. That is the 5 inch standard.

Build Friendliness Features

Replaceable individual arms with simple, non-stack bolts so you can change an arm without taking the whole quad apart.
Rear 20 x 20 mm mounting for VTX.
Plenty of space between top and bottom plates so the stack breathes and wiring is not crushed.
Chamfered or rounded arm edges to reduce splinters and protect battery straps.
Printed or rubber camera protectors and a GoPro mount option if you plan to record HD.

Durability Tips (How to Crash Less Expensively)

Use at least two battery straps and a non-slip pad on the top plate to stop the pack from ejecting.
A small front and rear bumper or skid helps with rough landings.
Add a self-powered buzzer so you can find the quad in tall grass after a tumble.
Use a dab of thread locker on metal-to-metal screws. Do not use it on plastic.

Common Frame Styles by Prop Size

2 to 3 inch: 100 to 150 mm wheelbase, XT30 power connectors, 20 x 20 or 25.5 x 25.5 boards.
5 inch: 220 to 250 mm wheelbase, XT60, 30.5 x 30.5 stacks, 5 mm arms.
7 inch long range: 295 to 320 mm wheelbase, reinforced arms, lots of space for GPS and bigger antennas.

Building a larger aerial rig (F450 or S500 or 550 to 680 class)?
Look for:

Wheelbase 500 to 680 mm with room for 11 to 15 inch props
Landing gear and clear gimbal space up front
Foldable or reinforced arms for transport and durability
Mounting for APM or Pixhawk style FCs, GPS mast, and tidy power distribution

These are great for stable, GPS-assisted flying and aerial video. Start with durability and mounting room over ultra-low weight.

Red Flags To Avoid (Learn From Other's Mistakes, Not Your Wallet)

Full aluminum or plastic plates on a 5 inch frame. They bend or crack too easily.
No stack clearance or awkward standoff placement that pinches the FC soft mounts.
Single-bolt arm retention that wiggles after a few crashes.
Camera side plates that only fit nano width when you own a micro cam.

Your First Frame Purchase Checklist

✅ Carbon fiber with replaceable 5 mm arms
✅ Wheelbase ~220 to 250 mm for 5 inch props
✅ Top-mount battery layout and room for two straps plus a battery pad
✅ 30.5 x 30.5 mm stack holes for FC and ESC, plus 20 x 20 mm rear holes for VTX
✅ Micro 19 mm camera side plates or adapters included
✅ 16 x 16 mm M3 motor mount holes in the arms
✅ Spare arm and hardware kit available, or at least easy to source

Final thought: Get something solid that can handle your "creative flying style" while you figure out which trees are magnetic (spoiler: all of them). The good news? Every crash makes you better, and carbon fiber is surprisingly forgiving. Your wallet, however, is not.

Batteries & Power 101

The 30-Second Version
For a first 5 inch build, pick one of these and you are set:

4S LiPo, 1300 to 1500 mAh, XT60 connector. Pairs well with 2400 to 2550 KV motors.
6S LiPo, 1000 to 1100 mAh, XT60 connector. Pairs well with 1750 to 1900 KV motors.

Can't decide between 4S and 6S? Start with 4S. it's more forgiving and batteries cost less. Add a balance charger, a LiPo safe bag, and make sure your ESC and flight controller are rated for the pack voltage.

Batteries: What They Do

Your battery is the fuel tank, but unlike gas, it also determines your drone's personality. It provides raw DC power to everything - ESCs, motors, flight controller, and peripherals. The voltage (4S vs 6S) sets your power band, while capacity (mAh) determines flight time. Together with your motors, the battery defines whether your quad feels like a rocket or a school bus.

LiPo batteries deliver massive current on demand - we're talking 60-100+ amps during punch-outs. This isn't your phone battery. Treat them wrong and they'll puff up, catch fire, or simply die after ten cycles. Treat them right and they'll give you hundreds of flights. The difference? Following basic charging and storage rules that take five minutes to learn.

What “S” Means

“S” is the number of LiPo cells in series, which sets voltage.

4S = 4 cells, about 14.8 V nominal and 16.8 V full.
6S = 6 cells, about 22.2 V nominal and 25.2 V full.

Match motor KV to cell count. Lower voltage wants higher KV, higher voltage wants lower KV. That is why 4S pairs with around 2400 to 2550 KV on 5 inch, and 6S pairs with around 1750 to 1900 KV.

Capacity, Flight Time, and Weight

Capacity is in mAh. Bigger number usually means longer flight time, but also more weight. Your goal is a pack that gives you 3 to 5 minutes of confident flying without making the quad feel heavy or sluggish. For a 5 inch beginner build:

4S: 1300 to 1500 mAh is the common sweet spot.
6S: 1000 to 1100 mAh is the common sweet spot.

Tip: land while cells are still healthy. After the pack rests, aim to be around 3.6 to 3.8 V per cell. Going much lower shortens battery life fast.

C Rating, Without The Marketing

C rating claims how much current a pack can deliver. Rough rule:
Max current (A) ≈ Capacity (Ah) x C rating.
Example: 1500 mAh is 1.5 Ah. Labeled 75C gives 1.5 x 75 = 112.5 A on paper.

Reality check: labels are often, let's say, 'optimistic'. Plan on about half the sticker as a safe continuous number. If your voltage sags hard below 3.3 V per cell during punch outs, the pack is either too small, too tired, or not as “C” as advertised.

Connectors and Leads

XT60 is the standard on 5 inch builds. XT30 is common on 2 to 3 inch micros.
Every LiPo has a balance lead. Use it for balance charging every time.
Typical wire gauge for 5 inch main leads is 14 AWG or 16 AWG. Match the connector on your ESC or be ready to solder a pigtail.

Power Distribution, The Quick Map

Battery → 4-in-1 ESC or AIO → Flight Controller → Peripherals.

Your ESC or AIO usually provides regulated rails like 5 V and sometimes 9 V.
Power VTX and receiver from the regulated rails, not raw battery voltage, unless the device is rated for VBAT.
A smoke stopper on the very first power up can save your electronics if there is a short.

Charging Basics

Balance charge every time.
1C is the default safe rate. A 1500 mAh pack charges at 1.5 A. Faster is possible but not needed for beginners.
Double check the charger sees the correct cell count and target voltage before you hit Start.
Storage at about 3.8 V per cell if you will not fly for a few days.

Safety Essentials

Charge on a non-flammable surface, inside a LiPo safe bag, and never unattended.
If a pack is puffed, punctured, or very hot, stop using it. Recycle at an e-waste facility.
Keep packs away from sharp carbon edges. Use a battery strap and a non-slip pad so the pack cannot eject into the props.

Common Mistakes To Avoid

Buying 6S packs then using high KV motors meant for 4S.
Powering VTX or camera from VBAT when they expect a clean 5 V or 9 V rail.
Mixing XT30 and XT60 without adapters or re-soldering.
Charging in fast mode or without the balance lead.
Flying packs down to the point the quad falls out of the sky. That ruins batteries quickly.

Your First Battery Purchase Checklist

✅ Cell count fits motors and ESC. 4S with around 2400 to 2550 KV on 5 inch, or 6S with around 1750 to 1900 KV.
✅ Capacity: 1300 to 1500 mAh on 4S, or 1000 to 1100 mAh on 6S, for a first 5 inch build.
✅ Connector matches your rig. XT60 for 5 inch is standard.
✅ C rating that is believable. Prefer reputable brands and avoid too-good-to-be-true labels.
✅ Balance charger that supports LiPo, balance mode, and storage mode.
✅ LiPo safe bag for charging and transport.
✅ Spare packs if budget allows. Two to four packs make practice sessions worth the trip.

Motors: Powering Your Drone's Flight

Brushless drone motors for high efficiency and performance

The 30-Second Version: For your first 5-inch build, grab four 2207 or 2306 brushless motors. Trust us on this one.

Building on 4S? Go with ~2400-2550 KV (the sweet spot that just works)
Going 6S? Pick ~1700-1900 KV (what most pilots fly today)

Expect to spend ₹500-₹1,500 per motor (ex-GST) for reliable brands and yes, it’s worth avoiding the bargain bin here. This combo covers ~90% of beginner builds, and honestly? You’ll probably love these motors for months before wanting anything different.

Now, let’s understand why these numbers matter and when you might choose differently.

What Motors Do

Motors convert electrical energy from your battery into mechanical rotation, which spins props to generate thrust. Each motor responds independently to commands from the flight controller via the ESCs, adjusting speed hundreds of times per second.

The magic is in brushless design - electromagnets in the stator (stationary part) push and pull permanent magnets in the rotor (spinning part) with precisely timed pulses. No brushes to wear out, less heat, more efficiency. The size determines torque and top-end power, while KV rating sets the RPM per volt. Get the combo wrong and you'll either have no power or melt your motors. Get it right and physics becomes your playground.

Understanding Motor Sizes (It’s Simpler Than It Looks)

Motor sizes use a four-digit code that actually makes sense once you know the secret:

2207 = 22 mm stator diameter, 7 mm stator height
2306 = 23 mm stator diameter, 6 mm stator height

Here’s how it feels in the air: wider stators (like 2306) give you that smooth, predictable power perfect when you’re learning or trying to nail that gap. Taller stators (like 2207) are punchier, more “right now!” which is why racers love them. Many beginners start with 2306 for its smooth feel; 2207 is equally popular once you want more punch.

Common pairings by drone type (so you know you’re in good company):

2.5–3″ props: 1404–1506 motors (tiny rockets)
5″ props (where everyone starts): 2205–2306, 2207
7″ long-range cruisers: 2806–2808 / 3106

KV Rating: Your Speed vs. Control Choice

KV tells you how fast a motor spins per volt with no load. But what does that mean for your thumbsticks?

Higher KV (≈2400-2750 on 4S): snappier, more aggressive - think caffeinated flying
Lower KV (≈1700-2100 on 6S): smoother, more efficient - like having power steering

Where beginners thrive:

4S 5″: ~2400-2550 KV (responsive but forgiving)
6S 5″: ~1750-1900 KV (modern standard, buttery smooth)

Real-world example that’ll save your motors: A 2450 KV motor on 4S (~14.8 V) spins around 36,000 RPM unloaded perfect. Put that same motor on 6S (~22.2 V) and it’ll try for 54,000 RPM which can over-current/overheat with 5″ props (hello magic smoke). Always match KV to your battery (learned this one the expensive way).

Brushless vs. Brushed (Spoiler: You Want Brushless)

Unless you’re building a tiny whoop for flying around your living room, go brushless. Here’s why everyone does:

They last forever (okay, not forever, but close, no brushes to wear out)
Noticeably more flight time from better efficiency
Way more power when you need it (and smoother when you don’t)

Yes, they cost more than brushed (₹1,500 vs ₹300), but think of it this way: brushed motors are like disposable batteries, brushless are like rechargeables. You’ll thank yourself later.
The one exception: Tiny whoops sometimes use brushed 8520 motors because they’re adorably small and cheap. That’s really it.

Mounting: The Details That Matter

Most modern 22xx/23xx 5″ motors use a 16×16 mm M3 bolt pattern. Some models also use 16×19 mm - always check your frame and the motor product page. This isn’t the place for “it’ll probably fit.”

Prop hub fit: 5″ builds use a standard 5 mm shaft with an M5 prop nut; smaller props (2–3″) may use T-mount (2-bolt). Make sure your prop hub matches your motor’s shaft/bolt style.

The screw-length tip that’ll save your motors: Before you mount anything, test-fit your screws without props. Thread them in gently - if you feel any resistance before the screw head touches the arm, STOP. That’s the screw hitting the windings, and one more turn means a dead motor. Ask anyone who’s killed a motor this way (spoiler: everyone has at least one story).

Motor Direction and Wiring

You need two motors spinning CW and two CCW. The good news? Modern setups make this painless:

Pick props-in or props-out in Betaflight (props-out looks cooler in footage, just saying)
Reverse any motor in BLHeli Configurator with a few clicks
Or go old school: swap any two of the three motor wires to reverse direction

Some listings still separate “CW” and “CCW” versions - if you see this, buy two of each; most 5″ motors use standard M5 prop nuts, and you can still reverse spin direction in software if needed. It’s like buying left and right shoes when they’re actually both adjustable.

What Your Budget Gets You (The Honest Truth)

~₹350-₹1000 (ex-GST): Entry-level - they’ll fly, you’ll learn, but you’ll upgrade within months
~₹1,000-₹1,950 (ex-GST): The sweet spot - smooth, reliable, what most of us fly daily
₹2,000-₹4,000+: Premium stuff - lighter, smoother, for when you can feel the difference (you’ll know when you’re ready)

Pro tip: Start in the sweet spot. Budget motors will frustrate you, and premium motors won’t make you a better pilot (yet).

Red Flags to Avoid (Save Your Money)

We’ve all been tempted by that too-good-to-be-true deal. Here’s what to run from:

No brand or suspiciously vague specs (“powerful motor for drone” is not a spec)
No thrust data or test results (legit manufacturers always test their stuff)
Unusually light for the class (watch for copper-clad aluminum windings)
Reviews mentioning “arrived bent” or “bearings feel gritty” (QC matters)

If the price seems impossible, it probably is. One crashed motor costs more than you “saved.”

Your First Motor Purchase Checklist

Before clicking “buy,” make sure you’ve got:

✅ Matching bolt pattern (16×16 for most, maybe 16×19) that fits your frame
✅ Prop hub fit: 5″ = 5 mm shaft + M5 nut; micro props may be T-mount (2-bolt)
✅ Right KV for your battery: ~2400-2550 KV for 4S, ~1750-1900 KV for 6S
✅ Set of 4 (grab a spare if budget allows future you will thank you)
✅ Correct screw lengths in your cart (or reuse from old motors if they fit)
✅ Actual brand with real specs (KV, weight, thrust data not just marketing fluff)
✅ If buying “CW/CCW” versions, two of each (you can still reverse in software anyway)

Final thought: Your first motors don’t need to be perfect they need to be reliable. Get something decent, learn to fly, and upgrade when you know what you actually want. We all started somewhere, and honestly? Those first motors will always be special, even after you’ve moved on to fancier stuff.

Propellers: Generating Lift and Thrust

Drone propellers with varying sizes and pitch for lift and thrust generation

30-Second Version

Default for a 5-inch freestyle build: 5×3.6 to 5×4.0, tri-blade, durable polycarbonate, M5 hub. This is the common starting point for 5-inch freestyle and for good reason.

Learning or smooth cruising: lower pitch (about 3.1 to 3.5)
Punchier or racing: mid to high pitch (about 4.0 to 4.3), lightweight tri-blade
Long-range 7-inch: bi-blade, low pitch for efficiency
Cinewhoop 3 to 3.5 inch: ducted, low-pitch tri or quad for stable footage
Buy enough: 3 to 5 full sets per field day

What Propellers Do

Props are your thrust generators - they bite into air and throw it downward, pushing your drone up per Newton's third law. Each blade is an airfoil that creates pressure differential as it spins. More aggressive pitch angles move more air but need more power. More blades mean more grip but less efficiency. Every prop choice is a trade-off.

Here's what some beginners don't realize: props affect everything. They determine current draw, flight time, noise level, video quality (vibrations), and how your quad responds to stick inputs. Wrong props can overheat motors, brown-out ESCs, or make tuning impossible. Right props make average components feel great. They're also the only part guaranteed to break regularly, so you'll become very familiar with changing them.

What Actually Changes the Feel

Diameter: Larger disc equals more thrust and higher current. 5-inch is the all-round FPV sweet spot. It is big enough to perform and small enough to avoid draining the pack too fast.

Pitch: Higher pitch bites more air which means more speed and more amps. Lower pitch is smoother and extends flight time. Think of pitch like gears on a bike.

Blade count:

2-blade: efficient with a floaty feel
3-blade: the 5-inch default for grip and control
4 or 5 blades: extra stability in ducts with less efficiency and a sharper sound

Material and stiffness: Polycarbonate is standard. Stiffer feels sharper but may snap on impact. Softer survives knocks but can feel mushy. Glass-fiber mixes exist and are worth considering once you can feel the difference.

Weight: Lighter props spin up faster and feel more responsive. Heavier props add load on motors and ESCs.

Match Props to Your Motors and Battery

4S, 2306 to 2207 at 2400 to 2700 KV: Start with 5×3.1 to 5×3.6 tri-blade. This is a proven combo.

6S, 2207 at 1700 to 2000 KV: Start with 5×3.6 to 5×4.0 tri-blade. This is the modern standard.

Temperature check: After any prop change, do a 15-second punch-out and touch the motors. If they are too hot to keep a finger on, the prop is too aggressive for your tune or conditions. There is a risk of overheating or burnouts.

Quick Picks by Goal

Beginner 5-inch freestyle: 5×3.6 to 5×4.0 tri-blade, durable PC
Racing: 5×4.0 to 5×4.3 tri-blade, lightweight PC which means higher amp draw and shorter flights
Cinewhoop 3 to 3.5 inch: low-pitch tri or quad to reduce noise and jello
Long-range 7-inch: 7×3 to 7×3.5 bi-blade for efficiency and cooler motors
Low-noise parks: drop pitch one step or reduce blade count

Fitment and Installation

Hub type: 5-inch uses M5 with a nyloc locknut which helps prevent loosening. Micros often use T-mount 1.5 mm with two screws.
Direction: Install CW and CCW correctly. Props-out helps keep the camera cleaner. Props-in also works.
Orientation: Numbers or logo side typically faces up. Follow the small arrow on the blade if present.
Clearance: Ensure tips cannot clip ducts, battery straps, or TPU guards during flex.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Jumping straight to high-pitch props on a fresh build
Mixing brands or weights across arms
Ignoring obvious warps or heavy flashing that throw balance off
Choosing ultra-soft indestructible props that hurt control feel
Over-tightening prop nuts which risks stripped threads

Buyer Checklist

Before you add to cart:

✅ Size and pitch that match your motor KV and cell count
✅ Correct hub type which is M5 for 5-inch or T-mount for micros
✅ 3 to 5 full sets for the field, plus spare lock nuts and a prop tool
✅ One or two low-pitch sets for learning and tuning which is 3.1 to 3.5
✅ A mid-pitch set once you are comfortable which is 3.6 to 4.0
✅ Optional high-pitch set for testing which is 4.3 and above
✅ Known brand with consistent quality

Final thought: Your first propellers will die heroic deaths because it is part of learning. Start durable and mid-pitch, then step up as your tune and thumbs improve. Props are cheap. Motors and ESCs are not.

Flight Controller: The Brain of Your Drone

Flight controller circuit board managing drone stability and movement

30-Second Version

Default for 5 inch freestyle: an F7 flight controller on a 30.5 x 30.5 mm mounting pattern, paired with a 35 to 60 A 4 in 1 electronic speed controller (ESC) using an 8 or 10 pin cable harness.
Power needs: clean 5 V 2 A for receiver and accessories, plus 9 V 2 A if you run HD video or a higher power analog video transmitter.
Connections: at least 5 UARTs which are serial ports, so you can plug in the radio receiver, video transmitter control, GPS, and telemetry without juggling.
Quality of life: on screen display (OSD), 16 MB or more blackbox logging, USB C, and an optional barometer for altitude readouts.
Firmware: Betaflight for freestyle and racing. Use iNav if you want GPS features. For mission planning and larger platforms, consider ArduPilot.

What a Flight Controller Does

The flight controller reads the gyroscope, listens to your radio commands, runs the control loop, and tells each ESC how fast to spin its motor. It also routes power to peripherals and overlays OSD on your video feed. If the flight controller reboots or loses power in flight, the quad will fall. Solid power and clean wiring matter as much as the processor.

Processor Types

F4: capable for basic builds but usually fewer UARTs and more workarounds.
F7: the sweet spot for 5 inch. More I O, easier serial handling, and enough headroom for filters and OSD.
H7: fastest and feature rich. Useful for complex builds but not required for a typical 5 inch freestyle quad.

AIO vs Separate Stack

All in one flight controller with integrated ESC: compact and light. Best for whoops and micros. If one section fails, the whole board may need replacement.
Separate flight controller plus 4 in 1 ESC: common for 5 inch. Easier part replacement, better thermal handling, and a cleaner layout.

Specs That Actually Matter

Mounting pattern: 30.5 x 30.5 mm with M3 hardware is the 5 inch default. 20 x 20 mm with M2 for light builds. 25.5 x 25.5 mm with M2 is whoop style.
UART count: plan one each for the radio receiver, video transmitter control, GPS, and optional telemetry or HD system. Aim for 5 or more.
BECs: battery eliminator circuits that provide regulated voltage. 5 V 2 A minimum for peripherals. 9 V 2 A is ideal for video transmitters. Check the total current draw for camera, VTX, receiver, and LEDs.
Gyro: common chips like BMI270, ICM series, or MPU series all work. Stability depends more on tune and soft mounting than the logo on the sensor.
Blackbox: 16 MB or more helps with tuning and debugging.
ESC connector: 8 or 10 pin harness simplifies wiring. If you direct solder, triple check motor order before first spin.
USB C and a barometer are useful quality of life features.

Compatibility and Protocols

Battery support: most modern stacks support 3 to 6S. On 6S, prefer stacks with a dedicated 9 V BEC for the video transmitter.
Motor protocol: set DShot300 or DShot600 for 5 inch. Enable bidirectional DShot to unlock RPM filtering from ESC telemetry.
Radio receiver: connect ExpressLRS which is ELRS or similar on a free UART. Set the correct serial protocol in firmware and bind before closing the stack.
Video system: analog or HD both work. Use the 9 V rail for the video transmitter when available and configure VTX tables in firmware.
GPS: needs a clean 5 V rail and a free UART. Mount the GPS away from noisy power wiring.

Installation Tips

Orientation: the arrow on the PCB points forward. If you rotate the board, set board alignment in firmware before the first hover.
Soft mounting: use rubber gummies and avoid over tightening. Do not preload the stack with twisted or tight wires.
Grounding: keep video grounds consistent between camera, video transmitter, and flight controller to reduce noise.
Capacitor: add a low ESR capacitor at the ESC battery pads to protect the flight controller from voltage spikes.
First power up: use a smoke stopper which is a current limiter and power up with props off. If LEDs flicker or the board reboots, check the 5 V and 9 V rails.